Three jewellers, one passion for colourful gemstones
OUR NATURAL ATTRACTION TOWARDS COLOURED GEMSTONES IS SO STRONG THAT THERE IS A UNIVERSAL FONDNESS FOR VIBRANT JEWELLERY. Every year, designers aim to offer unique colour combinations and styles to bring out the best of these gifts provided by Mother Nature. And so, over the years, the thin line dividing precious and semi-precious gemstones has slowly ceased to exist. Times have changed, and nowadays, gemstones such as coral, chrysoprase, aquamarine, and the likes have often taken centre stage in many a high jewellery piece.
Bvlgari, for example, has completely redefined the use of gemstones in jewellery. One can spot an emerald sitting right next to an amethyst or even a turquoise, surrounded by diamonds. The brand’s emphasis on quality and colour surpasses all other definitions. Similarly, there are many designers whose passion for these colourful beauties has defined their jewellery DNA and design aesthetics. Three such brands are Palmiero, Verdi, and Farah Khan.
PALMIERO JEWELLERY DESIGN
With 30 years of experience under his label, Carlo Palmiero is known for his penchant to play with unique colour gradations in threedimensional object, bringing out an artistic flair in high jewellery.
Their latest collection, Beauty Will Redeem The World, modifies the standards of classic jewellery. With Palmiero’s pieces, the attention has been moved from the centre stone to the whole object surface, by enlarging the shapes, adding vibrant colours, and telling a story.
“I choose rare stones for their quality, chromatic variety, and cut,” shares Palmiero. “I personally look for them all over the world. I combine the rarest-coloured diamonds together with the best natural sapphires, and create combinations and shades. I also use intense topazes, brilliant rubellites, and beautiful rubies; they become pure colour that I use to give life to my ideas.”
To achieve best gradations, gemstones are carefully selected and worked upon by the most skilled stone setters and gemmologists. “This is the reason why our jewellery glows in the dark even more so than under the light,” continues Palmiero. “In every design, we focus on the curves that play with light. We create a surface where the stones are set very close to each other using the pavè setting technique, where we can play with stones and show our creativity.”
“I choose rare stones for their quality, chromatic variety, and cut” – Carlo Palmiero, Founder and Designer of Palmiero Jewellery Design
Created especially for women who have their own sense of style and refuse to fade in the background, Verdi jewellery stands out in grace and elegance. Truly Italian in style, the brand’s latest collection has turquoise and corals as centre stones, in combinations with yellow and white gold along with hints of blue sapphires and emeralds. The gemstones are cut in unique shapes, adding exceptional quality to the jewellery.Simple and sophisticated, Verdi’s designs have a strong personality and are never too elaborate nor excessively modern. “We like to experiment with unusual combinations and shapes, mostly inspired by the beauty of nature,” shares Marco Verdi, the brand’s COO. “Of course, we also have diamond-based pieces, but when it comes to coloured gemstones, we really feel like we are in our element.”
When asked about their unusual choice of gemstones, Verdi adds: “We use a lot of turquoise in our pieces, along with red coral, because first, they give us the possibility to create new shapes, and second, because they strongly represent ‘Made in Italy’ — a concept that we proudly carry around the world. The Mediterranean Sea is full of coral, and turquoise is the colour of waters in the most exclusive seaside places of our beautiful land.”
“When it comes to coloured gemstones, we really feel like we are in our element” – Marco Verdi, COO of Verdi
“I am a strong believer that jewels without coloured stones is like life without colours, viewing the world around us in black and white,” says Indian designer Farah Khan. “Colour brings character to jewellery and gives it a personality.” Each piece of Farah Khan jewellery is set with one or more beautiful gemstones. When selecting gemstones, Khan looks for inspiration, brilliance, dazzle, and shine. For her, the gemstone needs to have a ‘life’ in it, for her to select it and design around it. “I play with unusual colour combinations to highlight coloured gemstones. Using different cuts together adds a certain character to the designs,” she shares. Khan is one of the few Indian jewellery designers who have used the whole bandwidth of gemstones in her jewellery, right from the simplest form of quartz to Paraiba tourmaline, and every possible natural gemstone in between.
Her experimental ways of working with unique colour combinations are result of her busy and colourful lifestyle. For a person who literally thinks in colour, Khan is always full of new ideas and concepts, a risk taker who doesn’t shy away from unusual gemstones and designs.
“I am a strong believer that jewels without coloured stones is like life without colours” – Farah Khan, CEO and Creative Head of Farah Khan Fine Jewellery