IN FULL BLOOM | Solitaire Magazine

IN FULL BLOOM

18kt Rose gold bracelet with diamonds from the new Bvlgari Fiorever collection

 

Bvlgari’s new collection pays tribute to its enduring love affair with flowers

Flowers are among the most ubiquitous and loved motifs in jewellery. So for a city celebrated for its la dolce vita — namely Rome — and for the city’s quintessential jeweller — namely Bvlgari — flowers are a fitting and enduring emblem,

Fiorever, the new high jewellery collection from Bvlgari, is nothing less than “an exaltation of natural beauty in the everyday” told through flowers. Twenty-four extraordinary pieces of jewellery, beautifully crafted in sculptural white or pink gold, dance around a magnificent central solitaire, to the theme of the four-petal flower.

 

Úrsula Corberó wearing the new Bvlgari Fiorever collection

 

The Fiorever collection — from the Italian word flower ‘fiore’ and the English word ‘forever’ — establishes the flower as an official symbol of the storied Roman jewellery house. Yet Bvlgari has had a long and fruitful love affair with flowers. Since 1920, the maison has found in the floral motif the perfect theatre for the bold combinations of multi-hued gemstones and diamonds that are both its passion and its signature trait. The earliest example of this is a silver brooch with rubies and diamonds dating back from 1917.

Over the years, the flowers have taken many shapes and moods, inspiring some of Bvlgari’s most creative designs. Among the most famous are the Tremblant floral brooches of the 1960s, whose blooms were mounted on spring settings and trembled or vibrated with movement, recalling petals in a light breeze. With these pieces, the craftsmen at Bvlgari mastered and perfected a mechanism that was developed in 18th century, renewing it for a new era and producing a hallmark style of delicacy and ephemeral beauty for the house.

Subsequent decades saw an even greater efflorescence. The Giardinetto brooches and asymmetric flowers of the late 1960s brimmed with rainbow-coloured sapphires, emeralds, rubies, and diamonds. Progressing into the 1990s, the floral motif evolved to reflect the vibrancy and dynamism of the period, with the exuberant Naturalia collection ‘camouflaging’ its flowers in the organic forms of the piece.

 

White gold and diamond ring from the new Bvlgari Fiorever collection

 

In the Fiorever collection, the flower is the four-petal variant first introduced in 2015 in the Giardini Italiani high jewellery collection inspired by the Italian Renaissance secret gardens. The unconventional four-petalled bloom was also explored over the decades, and in the 1980s made an appearance in an amazing brooch mounting an exceptional layout of fancy yellow diamonds surrounding an oval diamond. The four symmetric, triangular petals seen in the brooch is the leitmotif of the current collection. In fact, it is a part of Rome’s heritage and decorates many of the vestiges of the Roman Empire: the garden frescos of Villa di Livia, the sculptures of Palazzo Massimo, and the ceiling mosaics of the Santa Costanza Mausoleum, among others.

These myriad influences, both historical and aesthetic, underlie the sculptural forms of the two-dozen rings, bracelets, pendants and chains, and earrings that make up the Fiorever collection. At the heart of each piece is a solitaire of the highest quality — colour D-F, clarity IF-VVS. Around this dazzling centre, the petals of the flower unfurl upwards, in some designs looking like three-dimensional ribbons lined with smaller diamonds.

 

Rose gold and diamond necklace and ring from the new Bvlgari Fiorever collection

 

Other pieces bring to mind a bouquet covered in a skein of diamonds; while yet other ‘petals’ are left unadorned but instead feature delicately cut slopes and angles on their surface. Throughout the collection, Bvlgari’s trademark style of design through volume is on full display, giving each sculptural bloom a tactile, almost living quality.

Whether adorning the earlobe or finger, encircling the wrist, or caressing the neckline, the pieces seem animated by the magical, timeless lust for life of The Eternal City and the irreverent, free-spirited yet irresistible femininity of the woman who would wear Fiorever.

In the new Bvlgari campaign shot by acclaimed photographer Mario Sorrenti, Fiorever wears the face of sultry Spanish actress Úrsula Corberó. Following her breakout performance in the hit Netflix series La Casa de Papel (Money Heist), the Barcelona native was chosen as the muse for the collection. In making the announcement, Bvlgari could well have been describing its own fascination and continuing relationship with flowers. Úrsula’s constantly positive personality, said the jewellery house, represented the intrinsic Roman joy for life. Her ‘solar energy’ infuses life with a “passion as resplendent and unforgettable as the singular, sparkling flower”.