By Sasha Gonzales
Shanya Amarasuriya fifth-generation jeweller and creative director of B.P. de Silva Jewellers tells us about her design influences, how she found her calling, and how she sees the brand evolving.
Having grown up in a family of jewellers, it’s no surprise that Shanya Amarasuriya is a creative force at her family’s founding company and the oldest jewellery business in Singapore, B.P de Silva Jewellers.
When she stepped into the Creative Director role in 2018, Shanya already had a keen eye for gems and an impressive personal collection of gemstones. Armed with a degree in Gemmology and Fine Jewellery Design from the Fashion Institute of Technology New York, where she studied both traditional and modern jewellery-making techniques, she soon set about making her mark in the family business.
In 2020, for instance, she spearheaded the launch of B.P. de Silva’s first collection crafted in Fairmined Impact Gold, a type of precious metal responsibly mined in Peru by artisanal miners (the premium spent on Fairmined Impact Gold goes towards financing socio-economic development projects in Peru for these miners and their communities).
Shanya also expanded the company’s offering of coloured gems, and collaborated with clients and craftspeople for bespoke collections. A champion of ethical practices, she obtained B Corp certification for B.P. de Silva Jewellers in 2022; B Corp-certified companies are companies verified by B Lab (a global non-profit network transforming the global economy to benefit all people, communities and the planet) to meet rigorous standards of social and environmental performance, transparency and accountability.
“Safekeeping stories since 1872” is the B.P. de Silva motto, and for the last 152 years it has done exactly that, designing precious heirlooms and exquisite bespoke pieces for everyone, from multigenerational families to royalty (including His Majesty King Chulalongkorn, also known as King Rama V. The company received his patronage in the late 1800s-early 1900s). Others include engaged couples, individual jewellery connoisseurs and collectors. That commitment has not changed, with Shanya dedicated to protecting and preserving her family’s legacy while helping to steer the business into the future.
“All of us play a part in creating the world we want to see,” she says. “With my team, and as a designer myself, our goal is to create elegant time capsules of the best stories and values we want to pass down through generations. Each piece is designed to commemorate our best moments; I truly hope they will also serve as reminders to take our time discovering beauty in the everyday.
Here, Shanya talks about her contributions to B.P. de Silva, how she sees the company evolving, and what drives her work.
How did your interest in jewellery design and the family business develop?
Business was never on my radar, but, whether it was writing, sewing, drawing, painting or sculpting, I’ve always loved creating.
My father was instrumental in uncovering my passion for gemstones and craftsmanship. As children, my brothers and I got to tag along with him whenever he visited his boutiques and ateliers. Through listening to his conversations with our teams and craftspeople, I could sense his pride in what had been handed down to him.
It was also in these places that I saw ideas come to life through the hands of our master craftspeople. Watching them work inspired me to formally study jewellery design, both traditional and modern techniques, like wax sculpting, woodworking, metalsmithing, computer-aided design, hand-drafted design, and gouache painting.
B.P. de Silva isn’t just a brand I love; it’s also a part of me. It connects me to my roots and embodies generations of family values. Listening to our clients’ stories about their favourite jewels and how these heirlooms were passed down to them from previous generations, and hearing how the business shaped my grandparents’ lives, only made me appreciate the brand more as I got older.
What are your recent collections like and what inspired you to design them?
Our latest collection, Love Token, is inspired by vintage Victorian love tokens. I wanted to create a modern-day love token that our clients could personalise and enjoy as an everyday jewel and that encapsulates their love for someone special.
In the spirit of our Art Deco sensibility, I researched different geometric forms that could be applied as the frame to hold the personalised token, and fell in love with the octagon. An ancient symbol of luck and protection, it makes for a meaningful and modern outer silhouette for the love token. The three star-set diamond, which accents the personalised engraved initial, is inspired by the night sky, a symbol of light, love and perspective.
What do you love most about designing jewellery?
I love design in general as it allows me to connect with my creative side. Designing jewellery doesn’t just allow me to create for beauty and expression; it’s also an opportunity to create a time capsule for those precious moments in a person’s life.
Whom do you design for now?
When it comes to bespoke commissions, I design for people who are drawn to our long heritage, our design aesthetic and our high-quality standards.
As for house collections, the design team and I place a strong focus on silhouettes that are story-led, timeless and versatile. Our clients are thoughtful, sensitive to detail and quality, and connect with our brand values and spirit.
What cuts and stones are you most fond of?
I have a soft spot for Art-Deco-esque diamond cuts like the emerald, hexagon, shield and baguette, as well as vintage diamond cuts like the rose cut and the squarish old-mine cut, which have special silhouettes and a character that allows me to create something that’s one-of-a-kind.
I also have a penchant for unheated padparadscha sapphires, teal sapphires and blue sheen moonstones from Sri Lanka which I usually personally source for our clients. Curating such fine-coloured gemstones is like curating artworks, as each has its own special beauty.
What are some materials and techniques you would like to try?
Working with enamel, laser-cut gemstones and ceramic is something we will explore in good time. Since attending a gem show in New York, I’ve also been thinking about working with meteorite. It’s literally out of this world and has an organic texture that pairs well visually with platinum and white gold.
Tell us about some of your jewellery making techniques. I’m honoured to work alongside our master craftspeople, many of whom have been with us for over two decades. We have exceptional wax sculptors who hand-carve our wax models, and we take pride in our very fine pave-setting skills, which took our master setter over a decade to perfect. We rely on these and other traditional handcrafting skills, as we believe they’re an important connection between us and our creations.
What jewellery trends can we expect to see in the near future?
I believe that jewellery will move into interesting categories beyond rings, necklaces, earrings and bracelets. Some brands have already started embellishing eyewear and clothes with precious gemstones, and I believe this will continue. I also think that yellow gold will enjoy a revival, and with that, we may see more vintage-inspired designs.
Tell us about your gemstone collection.
I’ve been collecting gemstones since my younger days. Besides the usual gemstones that I work with at B.P. de Silva, my collection includes varieties like sunstones with copper flecks and labradorite, for example. And I have a separate collection of finer gemstones, like lagoon blue tourmalines, blue sheen moonstones, and padparadscha sapphires. I plan to someday design and set these as jewels for my children.
What are some of your interests outside of work?
I love writing postcards, letters and poems to my loved ones, and I enjoy painting as well – I’m currently working on something for my son’s new bedroom.
I rarely have time to read, so when I have a moment, usually on long-haul flights, I’ll read books about philosophy and self-improvement to enrich my mind. I also like reading Hole & Corner, magazine that celebrates craft and heritage and features interviews with independent artists and brands.
Before my son was born, I did volunteer work with my husband. It’s something I find grounding and meaningful and I’d like my young son to experience it, too, because I want him to discover the joys of connecting with others and giving his time to important causes.
What contributions will you continue to make to the business, and how do you see the brand evolving with the times?
I believe that it’s important to honour our past as we look to the future and to continue being a platform for sharing stories of courage, love and beauty. We have many interesting and exciting plans lined up as we prepare to take B.P. de Silva beyond Singapore. We may be 152 this year, but I feel like this is only the beginning.
