by Isabella Yan, Photos courtesy of respective brands
Sellers and buyers reported brisk business activities and positive sentiments all around
The 2024 edition of the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show and the Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show attracted over 81,000 buyers from 137 countries across the globe, underscoring the shows’ leading world position.
According to Sophia Chong, Deputy Executive Director of the HKTDC, the shows’ organiser: “The twin jewellery shows successfully attracted buyers from around the world to return to Hong Kong, and it is very encouraging. Exhibitors stated that buyers had shown a positive sentiment on purchasing, and had connected with new clientele, including those from emerging markets, which is crucial for business growth.”
Exhibitors reported steady traffic and positive sentiment during both shows. The Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show drew over 31,000 buyers from 125 countries and regions, while more than 49,000 buyers from 132 countries and regions joined the show.
For the two shows together, buyers from Mainland China, India, Japan, the Philippines, Thailand, and the United States ranked top in terms of non-Hong Kong visitors, underscoring the shows’ leading world position.
According to HKTDC, an on-site survey showed that over 60% of industry players anticipated sales rising in the next one to two years. Respondents believed trendy fashion jewellery was the category with the highest potential, followed by precious jewellery and designers’ jewellery.
Respondents considered the Middle East (70.6%), Australia and Pacific Islands (68.6%), India (65.3%), North America (59.2%) and ASEAN (56.3%) to be promising jewellery markets over the next two years in terms of growth.
Trend Indicators
The Designer Galleria, a section at the recently concluded jewellery shows in Hong Kong, saw robust participation from 38 jewellery designers from around the world, with a strong Asian contingent. It also served as a showcase for developing jewellery trends, including design, materials, colours, and even price points.
Taiwan-based jewellery designer Ammie Kang of Top Kang Jewellery Arts presented several eclectic, one-of-a-kind creations that incorporated sliced and rough diamonds, tourmalines, rubies and an array of vibrant coloured gems. Some pieces exuded a geometric modernist vibe, featuring belt rings inspired by Kusama, as well as antique-inspired settings crafted in 18k black rhodium gold.
Luminous, carved jade decorated bows, sweets, animals and figurines in Taiwan-based jeweller, Oli Jewelry. Meanwhile, JHENG Jewellery achieves a comparable level of charm by incorporating South Sea pearls along with an array of precious gemstones, enamel, and diamonds into their figurine designs.
Joy Wei Chow unveiled her whimsical ‘Uptown Funky Dog’ collection, inspired by friendly encounters with urban dogs. Infused with vitality and playfulness, each design captured the essence of the dog’s emotions, expressions, posture, and interactions with precision and charm.
Hong Kong jewellery designer Austy Lee, who exhibited at the World of Glamour, launched eye-catching designs including 1000 Eyes of Light Ring from the Vision of God collection. This featured colour-changing cat’s eye Alexandrite cabochons and a central cat’s eye chrysoberyl, also known as cymophane, accented with diamonds in a dark chrome setting. Lee explains that sourcing identical colour and size cat’s eye Alexandrite was a formidable task that required several years to accomplish.
Lee also launched the Lock-Knot Collection which showcased Santa Maria deep blue aquamarine and white diamonds or blue zircon, red enamel, and white diamonds set in a variety of enamel knot designs in 18k gold.
Japanese exhibitor Jewelry of Raden & Urushi presented Mizuhiki, a brooch inspired by the Japanese art of knotting. The brooch is decorated with a black pearl, diamond, and green garnet with knotted lacquerware, giving its traditional design a fashionable touch.
Hong Kong exhibitor Charming Jewellery Ltd brought its La Broderie brand, which featured embroidery, a National Intangible Cultural Heritage. Hong Kong embroidery masters used silk threads to create vivid illustrations of butterflies, dragonflies and orchids, sewn together with gold accessories and jewellery pieces.
Pearl jewellery continued a strong reign with innovative designs from Yoko London, Autore, and MOISEIKIN to Moksh. Australian jeweller, Autore, showcased the Enchantress Necklace from their New Ophidia Collection which won Best in High Jewellery at Inhorgenta Munich. The necklace encompassed 16.64 of pink diamonds, 23.99ct of white diamonds with a two-carat pear-shaped diamond on the snake’s head and black diamonds and moonstones on the eye. According to Paolo Trapani, Operations Manager Europe, A-grade South Sea Keshi pearls were collected over a span of eight years. “It was not easy to collect them in uniform shapes, sizes and heights,” he said. These pearls punctuate the design to add visual texture and detail to the snake.
Natural pearls also featured prominently in Indian jeweller Moksh’s creations, where a tapestry of natural seed pearls was intricately woven together. This meticulous craftsmanship revealed exquisite refinement in each piece, showcasing the jeweller’s mastery of their art.
Other Showstoppers
The 40th Hong Kong International Jewellery Show showcased 18 zones, highlighting international brands alongside cultural and creative designs. Each dedicated zone offered a diverse selection, spanning from high-end pieces to fashionable wearables. Highlights included exquisite diamond jewellery, coloured gems, Fei Cui, antique and period pieces, as well as cutting-edge trendy designs.
The Hall of Extraordinary featured 78 global exhibitors showcasing stunning diamond, gemstone, jade and pearl jewellery from Mainland China and Hong Kong, as well as masterpieces from exhibitors in Australia, Germany, India, Italy, Japan, Switzerland, Thailand, the UK, and the US.
Hong Kong exhibitor Hatta New World Co. Ltd brought a suite comprising a necklace, a ring, and a pair of earrings set with 110 carats of Brazilian Paraiba tourmaline and worth over HK$15 million. A very rare precious stone, Paraibas are known for their neon electric blue hue. The company also showcased a rare oval unheated Burmese Natural Star Sapphire weighing a staggering 117.72 carats.
Hong Kong-based exhibitor, Dehres, also showcased an exquisite pair of pigeon’s blood Burmese ruby earrings. The unheated Burmese rubies have a combined weight of 11.20+ carats and an exceptional colour. The earrings are cut to perfection allowing that brought out a perfect red hue.
Breath-taking examples of jadeite were presented by On Tung Co., a name synonymous with the finest Burmese jadeites. Their luminous, translucent jadeites came in a range of bead necklaces, pendants and earrings. Among the highlights was a necklace with two rows of natural, finest quality Burmese jadeite beads, the largest of which was approximately 12mm in diameter. The piece was valued at over HK$20 million.
Equipping and Updating ParticipantsA host of events were held during the twin shows to update industry players on the latest trends and inspire their next jewellery creations. They include an insightful talk “AI – Art Intelligence” by Paola de Luca of Trendvision Jewellery Forecasting, which delved into the intersection of artificial intelligence (AI) and human creativity in the realm of jewellery and luxury. Other talks included the overall state of the jewellery market by Valentin Andres, Industrial & Supply Chain Director of FRED. He observed a growing demand for branded jewellery, with fashion labels recently venturing into lab-grown diamonds. The new market for lab-grown diamonds, offering a lower entry price point, presents an opportunity for brands like Pandora to enhance their value proposition. Julien Loic Garin, Founder and Creative Director of The Collection by JLG Limited, delivered a presentation on the history and codes of jewellery, exploring its evolution in styling and tracing its influence on contemporary culture. This discussion served as a guide to aid in the creation, design, or purchase of jewellery. Muriel Piaser, Founder & CEO of Precious Rooms, a pioneering concept, dedicated to breaking the traditional codes of trunk shows, showrooms, and trade fairs, delves into the democratisation of fine jewellery within the fashion industry. |
