Diamonds are April’s birthstone. That makes things easier when it comes to adding new and interesting choices to your jewellery box.
Several independent designers have been using diamonds as the star gem in their creations resorting to their favourite diamond cuts and gem settings. Maria Kotsoni, Jacquie Aiche, Mateo, Jade Ruzzo, Tabayer, Melissa Kaye, Deborah Pagani, Gaelle Khouri, Moksh and Thelma West, among others, lend a whiff of freshness to diamond-peppered earrings, rings, bracelets, necklaces and pendants.
Diamonds for Melissa Kaye have always been central to her collection, and what the brand is best known for. “A diamond’s beauty and intrinsic value give our pieces an undeniable air of luxury that is in line with our mission, to create exceptionally crafted jewellery, made of the finest of materials,” says Melissa.
The round brilliant is a constant in their collection. “It’s a versatile cut, suitable for our modern silhouettes.
“We’ve also worked with various fancy cut diamonds – most recently ovals – which can be found in our new Lenox Reign collection. I’m also partial to any geometric or elongated diamond cuts.
“Our one-of-a-kind, custom Lenox designs are the perfect opportunity to feature these more unusual diamond cuts,” she adds.
A Brilliant Feeling
Greek Cypriot designer Maria Kotsoni seeks to distill the symbolism of the three-pointed star into her large diamond ear cuff. The new line draws on resilience, progress and strength evidenced in unity and brightness.
“The three-pointed star has the ability to always stand upright, rise and shine through the most obscure of darkness,” says the micro sculptor. The inspiration behind the collection comes from the combined symbolism of the triad and the star perceived as an evolution of the triskelion or triple spiral motif found in many cultures across the globe — and dating back to the fifth millennium B.C.
Fine jewellery designer Jacquie Aiche believes that diamonds appeal to designers because of how they make the wearer feel. “Whether you’re in a T-shirt and jeans or a little black dress, being layered in diamonds inspires luminous self-confidence.
“Lately, I’ve been playing with marquise diamonds as shakers. I love the way they delicately dance and shine,” Jacquie adds.
Architecture and baguette cut diamonds inform the Nuur collection by Mumbai-based brand Moksh. “Nuur is inspired by the shimmer of baguettes,” says founder Milan Chokshi.
Fluidity in the design is achieved through channel set baguettes and pavé set round diamonds in repetitive linear elements.
Kenny Yongkiettakul and Shar-Linn Liew, designer couple behind the fine jewellery label Kavant & Sharart, often mix baguette cut diamonds with brilliant cut, creating a seamless multi-dimensional aesthetic that is unique to their brand. “We are really enjoying using shield cut diamonds right now.
“The shield cut complements our origami series and we have been incorporating it in our designs for a couple of years. And because of the way it is cut, it is quite clean and simple — the step cut gives it a more understated appeal,” adds Shar-Linn Liew.
Steady as a Rock
Diamonds, believes Parisian designer Yvonne Léon, have always been a woman’s best friend. It is the most precious and invincible stone, observes Yvonne.
“My favourite diamond cut is the marquise cut, and I’ve always loved to work with pear shaped diamonds; I think it is the most feminine and elegant cut.
“I also work with pavé a lot, as it is shiny and so chic. It catches the light like no other stone,” says the designer, whose fresh take on fine wearables is gaining traction among jewellery lovers.
London-based Zeemou Zeng’s Heart collection is inspired by the Finger Heart sign — the thumb and index finger of one hand crossed to form a heart shape — which is now recognized as a sign of love or adoration. “Originating in South Korea, this symbol has gained traction in neighbouring countries of China and Japan, as well as the rest of the world due to the explosive global popularity of the K-pop artists such as BTS and Blackpink,” he explains.
The piece incorporates a unique movement mechanism and is envisioned as two “drops”, one on the top and one underneath that allows the drop to slide from left to right to open into a heart shape, or remain closed to form a drop.
A Diamanté Star
Meanwhile, Geoffrey Good’s celebrates the “dynamism of all that surrounds our world”, through his newest collection, Galaxy. The design is an homage to the universe, filled with galaxies, stars, stellar remnants, contrast, and mystery.
“I wanted to capture that feel of sparkling stars and fleeting comets using the finest natural diamonds, in a collection that would be timeless and minimalist but undeniably luxe,” says Geoffrey.
Mumbai-based designer Harakh Mehta of Harakh loves to embellish his jewels in natural diamonds, while seeking inspiration from joyous moments. His Peacock collection aims to capture his joy of “visiting the countryside and catching magical glimpses of the beautiful peacock. The jewellery reflects the dance and vibrancy of its gorgeous feathers.”
Harwell Godfrey, K&Co, Briony Raymond, Bibi van der Velden, Rainbow K, Lizzie Mandler, Retrouvai — take your pick from these offbeat designs in gold with perfectly placed diamonds in marquis, round, oval and emerald cuts. Shine away in the lasting allure of diamonds this April.
