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GLYPTOGRAPHY — WHAT IS IT?

By Preeta Agarwal

Spotting a carved gemstone set in jewellery is rare these days. Over the years, with the advancement of technology and modern gem-cutting techniques, the art of gem carving seems to have gotten lost somewhere.

 

Known also as glyptography, it involved carving motifs and patterns on the surfaces of semi-precious and precious stones. It is only through the perseverance of a few handful gem carvers that this art is being saved from extinction. Invented thousands of years ago, and perfected during the Roman and Greek empires, the techniques have been refined year after year.

Pear shaped carved emerald on gold earrings, AMRAPALI
Pear shaped carved emerald on gold earrings, AMRAPALI

 

Carvers etch the surface of a gemstone in a particular pattern, engraving it with shapes and motifs. Most gemstones can be engraved — the harder they are, the easier they are to carve; and the softer they are, the faster they tend to chip or break. Even a diamond, the hardest known substance, can now be carved using special tools and lasers.

 

Gem carving is all about picking up a rough or a flattened stone and visualising how you can unlock its inner beauty. It is as much about the power to visualise, as it is about the refined hand skills. It involves a lot of patience, as one small mistake means you need to re-start the whole process, starting with finding a similar gemstone. It is also about using the colour, the reflection of light, and the form given to the gemstone.

 

Peacock Royale necklace with hand carved natural unheated 18.68ct Burmese sapphire, DEGEM
Peacock Royale necklace with hand carved natural unheated 18.68ct Burmese sapphire, DEGEM

 

Two of the most famous forms of gemstone carvings were the cameo and intaglio, which used layers of gemstones like onyx and agate to their advantage, to create a miniature sculptural feel.

 

In intaglio, the designs were cut into the flat surface of the stone, while in cameo, the carvers used a method of creating raised and embossed-like designs on stones. Due to the tedious carving process and the high amount of labour that goes into it, both arts are slowly becoming redundant.

 

Ring in 18k Rose Gold and eiforyn from Vainard collection, HANS D. KRIEGER
Ring in 18k Rose Gold and eiforyn from Vainard collection, HANS D. KRIEGER

 

The simpler versions of carvings are more decorative. Taking inspirations from nature, architecture, and other objects, gemstones are carved with flowers, vines, or geometrical patterns. Gemstones like onyx, agate, amethyst, amber, and rubies, are most popular choices for carvings due to their hard nature and sharp colours. Carvings on emeralds are more precious and expensive due to a higher risk of stone breakage.

 

18K white gold, green jade, black jade, diamond ring, EDWARD CHIU
18K white gold, green jade, black jade, diamond ring, EDWARD CHIU

 

China is famous for their intricate jade carvings, not just for jewellery but also for ornate objects like vases, table bottoms, and decorative objects. Thankfully, our industry has recently been seeing international brands revisiting this art.

 

Peacock inspired necklace with emerald centre and carved tanzanites, FARAH KHAN
Peacock inspired necklace with emerald centre and carved tanzanites, FARAH KHAN

 

DeGem, Edward Chiu, Hans D. Krieger, Mirari, Renu Oberoi, and Amrapali are a few names from the global jewellery industry that regularly explore the art of gemstone carving.

 

Just like how fashion trends come and go every few years, carved gemstones are also making a comeback in the jewellery industry after decades of being on a break. With jewellers looking for other ways to play with shapes, colours, and sizes of gemstones, gem carving provides a welcome and artful respite.

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