Stylised depictions of African men have for centuries played muse to artists and jewellers alike. The use of ebony, precious gemstones and meticulous craftsmanship have long captivated craftsmen and customers with decorative, colourful designs.
For jewellery designer Wilfredo Rosado, his favourite piece to wear is his own Urban Prince 18k yellow gold ring that’s made of hand-carved ebony and adorned with coloured gemstones. “I named it Urban Prince because it conveys a sense of regality but with a nod to New York’s urban culture”, says Rosado.
It is the twist on the classics — a mix between high jewellery and street style — that guides the rest of his creations.
“My background is in art and fashion so my approach to jewellery design really begins from those points of views rather than a traditional jeweller’s point of view”, says Rosado, “My concepts always come to me in an abstract form and rarely do I think of a diamond or gemstone first then design around it.”
Rosado began his career in fashion under the mentorship of Giorgio Armani and as a protégé of Andy Warhol. Over the years, he has worked with several renowned fashion brands like Versace. After co-creating successful limited edition jewellery pieces with Julian Schnabel and Marc Quinn, Rosado decided to create his own jewellery collections, all of which are handcrafted in Italy and Pairs.
Rosado says: ” We experimented with different materials to make sure the movement was there while still being comfortable for the wearer.” Strategic structuring paired with unique materials are paramount to realise the Fringe, as well as Feather collection.
The Feather collection is created with the help of Chanel-owned feather atelier Maison Lemarié.
Rosado works instinctively and sometimes revisits past ideas with new perspective, as not every concept makes the final cut. ” I had created a bracelet that was filled with gorgeous colourful stones and diamonds, [but] in its execution it became quite heavy looking and lost the delicate air that I was hoping for.”
Rosado plans to incorporate embroidery into his creations, which are favourited by celebrities like Mariah Carey, Julia Roberts and Rihanna. “The woman I design for is independent. She is not a wallflower”, says Rosado. “She almost has a curated approach to her lifestyle and enjoys beauty. An original, not a follower!”
