LUNAR NEW GEAR | Solitaire Magazine


Unless your day job requires you to study the sky for navigation, keeping track of crop harvests, or measuring the tides, having a moonphase complication in your wristwatch may seem a frivolity. Unlike the perpetual calendar or other more ‘practical’ complication, the moonphase was born out of the historical need to keep track of the lunar cycle, which takes about 29 and a half days — the average length of our calendar month. Yet, manufacturers continue to feature moonphase complications, some as an aesthetic statement or a classic throwback to vintage mechanical models, others as part of their course of horological innovations.




The Annual Calendar has been the brand’s top-selling ladies’ complication watch for the past decade. This latest model will cement its position, proving that a ladies’ complicated timepiece can look as feminine and sophisticated as it is technical. A glance at the silvery sunburst dial reveals the moonphase and annual calendar with day, date, and month displays — complications that often come hand-in-hand. They are housed in a subtly reworked 38mm rose gold case with a wave-shaped diamond-set profile. The dial also features gold applied numerals and new thin leaf-shaped hour and minute hands filled with superluminova. At its heart is the self-winding Calibre 324 S QA LU, which has up to 45 hours power reserve.






The Heritage Phases De Lune Retrograde Sertie 8861 timepiece is a charmer — thanks to its less common curved tonneau-shaped case in 18k white gold. Dubbed as the ‘most feminine model of its Heritage collection’, it features a moonphase complication with a rhodium moon at 1 o’clock. Elevating its feminine status is its dial with a mother-of-pearl centre, engine-turned by hand in a ‘flinqué alterné’ pattern, a chapter ring in frosted silver-plating, and classic open-tipped Breguet hands. Its bezel is set with 140 brilliant-cut diamonds, totalling 1.14 carats; while a white gold bracelet enhances the overall brilliance.






Blancpain continues the tradition of making feminine, sophisticated watches with the Quantième Complet — a timepiece that exemplifies refinement, class, and horological complexity. Housed in its 35mm white gold case are the self-winding Calibre 6763 that powers the moonphase complication and a complete calendar with day and month displays and a date ring. A row of diamonds on the bezel, diamond hour markers, and a white satin strap give the timepiece a luxurious edge.





The new Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar first made an impression when it was launched last year in stainless steel and rose gold, a new take on the brand’s previous perpetual calendar wristwatches. Now, the timepiece is given another boost with the latest version in 18k yellow gold. The case and bracelet glimmer in this precious metal. The automatic Calibre 5134 movement is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, while the grande tapisserie-decorated blue dial features day, date, astronomical moon, month, leap year, and hours and minute. The moonphase is visible at 6 o’clock, while the week of the year can be seen on the dial’s outer chapter ring.






Big is apparently better with the Emperador Coussin XL Large Moon Enamel watch from the Secrets & Lights — A Mythical Journey by Piaget collection. The prominent moonphase indicator at 6 o’clock is housed in a 46.5mm pink gold case. Inspired by the legendary cities of Venice and Samarkand, the watch features hand-engraved gold dial featuring champlevé and miniature enamel, depicting the Mythical Journey road. Fitted with a brown alligator-leather strap, the watch is powered by the Manufacture Piaget 860P self-winding mechanical calibre, with 72-hour power reserve. The gem-set version is adorned with 160 brilliant-cut diamonds.






Omega continues to build on its legacy with the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional. The sporty timepiece, presented on a black leather strap, is big and tough with a 42mm steel case housing the calibre Omega 1866 manual-winding chronograph movement with 48 hours power reserve. Taking prominence is the moonphase  and date indicators on the black dial at 12 o’clock, along with 30-minute, 12-hour and small seconds sub-dials, and tachymetre function. They are covered with a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal.






At a glance, the Classico Lady Luna is slim and elegant with a rose gold case, diamonds, white mother-of-pearl dial, and leather strap. A closer look reveals an unusually large and fancy moonphse display in the centre. The moon is realistically represented, rotating clockwise around the centre of the dial, and making a complete rotation in 12 hours. The illuminated part remains in relation to the sun as depicted on the tip of the hour hand. It reveals the slower monthly phases of the moon which can be adjusted with a recessed pusher at 4.30 position. The watch is driven by the in-house UN-829 self-winding calibre.






The timepiece is surprisingly minimalistic, considering that it is a collaboration between high-end jeweller Boucheron and leading watchmaker Girard-Perregaux. The moonphase watch has elegant sinuous curves that hug the wrist, defined by a pink gold round case, and black alligator strap. Featuring the Girard-Perregaux GP03300-45 self-winding mechanical movement, the watch has a moonphase window at 6 o’clock, small seconds, and a patented large date display that has no separating line between the two digits.