Both an artist and an art lover, Victor Mayer had skill, enthusiasm, and a passion for fine jewellery. His impeccable craftsmanship has been the embodiment of the brand’s design philosophy for more than a century. Now managed by his fourth-generation descendants, Victor Mayer continues to bestow upon our industry elaborate and exquisite jewellery creations. Dr Marcus Oliver Mohr, great-great-grandson of Mr Mayer, and now the Creative Director of the brand, shares insights in design and savoir-faire.
Please share with us how your great great grandfather, Victor Mayer, started the brand 125 years ago?
Victor Mayer started the business at age 33. Trained as a sculptor and engraver, he studied at the university of applied arts in Pforzheim, Germany. And after working in Vienna for several jewellery firms, he was experienced enough to start a business by himself.
The brand has been around for so long. How did you manage to evolve, yet remain true to its heritage?
We did stick to the roots and the legacy of Victor Mayer. Our focus on traditional workmanship differentiates us from other brands, adding a real value in the perception of the connoisseur. We have kept our company design philosophy that sees a high value in the creative idea, next to the importance of the skills of our craftsmen.
You have a PhD in Philosophy. How does that help you in managing the brand?
Probably it does not help me at all. Moreover, it makes me very critical and hesitant because I look for the true meaning of what we do and how we do it. It might be visible to clients who find the stories that we share interesting.
As the fourth generation to manage the brand, what are the three things you have changed in the management style or design philosophy?
I have not really changed much. I would say I have intensified our efforts in certain sectors. We have improved our quality in the production and design of jewellery and watches. Above all, I believe in the education and training that we offer to our staff on a regular basis, allowing them to improve their skills.
How does being a family-run company add a distinctive element to your creations?
In my case, it makes decision-making much easier. My family gives me a lot of freedom. Ideas can be realised in a short period of time, whereas corporate structures sometimes take forever to make decisions. That also includes our flexibility to adapt to our customers needs.
What’s your role in the design department?
I have the role of the visionary. I usually come up with a concept like combining guilloche engraving with cabochon-cut gemstones and my designers develop it further into sketches. In that phase, I direct them until we find a shape and appearance that I like. I am working very closely with the designers and craftsmen, and I must say that this is one of my most favourable tasks in the company.
Where do you get your design inspirations?
Like all my ancestors, I am interested in the arts. When I travel I have a lot of opportunities to get inspirations in museums, and I just simply look at things with a mindful attitude. I use our own archive of sketch books and our library to find interesting concepts that we can convert into contemporary designs, which are true to our heritage.
You specialise in the use of enamelling and engraving. What are the main challenges you encounter when making high jewellery pieces using these techniques?
Both techniques bring along a lot of technical challenges. Only a team of experts can cope with that. Regularly, our designers and craftsman work closely together to come up with a perfect result. This team work is complex, so is the search for solutions for challenges that we encounter with every new design concept.
How would you describe Victor Mayer’s signature pieces?
The look of our signature pieces is always influenced by the way we make our jewellery. They are usually very colourful, but very understated. Our jewellery’s casual elegance is reminiscent of European style and German perfection.
Please describe the woman who embodies the Victor Mayer jewellery.
The woman we work for is strong, independent, and self-confident. She makes what she likes and does not necessarily count too much on the opinion of others. She loves beautiful things and has her own opinion about this. Finally she is elegant and casual at the same time. Grace Kelly is our role model.
What else do you wish to accomplish for the brand?
We want to reach more customers in all parts of the world, improve our communication with the public, and keep our independence in terms of creativity. It would be great if we can better understand the customer’s ideas and needs so we can make outstanding jewellery for the real connoisseurs.
All images courtesy of Victor Mayer
