At the Couture Show in Las Vegas, Nevada, we spotted jewellery that reveals its playful side and goes beyond the seriousness associated with material value. Here, bold designs made a statement for a real feast for the senses
The annual Couture Show held from 30 May to 3 June in Las Vegas saw the Wynn Hotel transform into a glittering paradise. Lustre from the casino floors moved to the show halls where the some of the world’s most innovative jewellery designs were spotted. Here are some of the trends that stood out.
Titanium, an avant-garde alloy, goes beyond the norms of platinum and gold, resulting in precious wearable art.
Vhernier Trottola bracelet and necklace
‘Extraordinary Evolutions’, Vhernier’s 2019 collection, is one of their most unexpected. Daring to experiment with bold combinations, materials, and proportions, the Italian jeweller reinvented its Trottola line with playful, sculptural components that come to life in matte black titanium. When paired with pavé diamonds, a completely invisible fastening blends in, making the pieces look seamless.
Clean lines and striking forms define the new trend of geometry-inspired jewellery. An example would be the ‘Vertigo’ collection by UK-based designed Stephen Webster. Inspired by radically modern architecture, the collection combines strong lines, colour, and extreme perspective to twist reality and create illusions of depth and dimension. Pushing bounderies, the Vertigo Very Obtuse Hoops, are dramatic shoulder-dusting isosceles earrings crafted from lightweight titanium material.
Bia Tambelli Trindade Bracelet
Stephen Webster Vertigo Very Obtuse Hoops
Another example is the ‘Trindade’ collection by Italian-Brazilian designer Bia Tambelli. Here, white and brown diamonds, rock crystal, citrine, and imperial topaz come together in a large-sized geometric structural jewellery piece. “This bracelet is strong in every way: Aesthetically, conceptually, and symbolically,” she says.
FLORA & FAUNA
Tapping the wild spirit of every woman, flora and fauna-inspired designs continue to add fascination to the jewellery world.
Lotus Arts De Vivre Flamingo earrings
Lotus Arts De Vivre knows how to have fun. “We combine natural materials sourced globally: Coconut and carved shells, scarab wings, driftwood, ebony and teak woods, seashells, bamboo, and even fruit and flower seeds,” says Thailand-based jeweller Nicki Von Bueren. The head and neck of these flamingo earrings are made with black onyx and diamonds, while the body is crafted from black rhodium sterling silver black-plated with pavé rose-cut diamonds and pink tourmalines. Meanwhile, the feathers are created from scarab wings and the legs are two flexible silver chains with black agate beads.
Anna Maccieri Teatro Wolf Story Pendant
Designed with an Italian flair using the métiers d’art of Swiss watches, the Teatro pendant is equipped with a quartz movement allowing the disc to change with the hours. “Behind every animal design, there’s a deep meaning. The wolf is a symbol of loyalty, wisdom, and spirit,” says jewellery designer Anna Maccieri Rossi.
Victor Veylan Paraiba Ring
Finally, Victor Veylan, an avid scuba diving enthusiast, takes inspiration from sea life: Corals and anemones become magical jewels. This ring comes with a Paraiba tourmaline of over 9 carats whose beauty is enhanced with diamonds, smaller Paraiba stones, and pearls set in 18-carat gold. “I see this ring as more of a coral or aquatic flower underwater. Nature in all its grandeur is more than just a retreat for me – it is a necessity – it is a way of life,” says the California-based designer.
ROYALTY WITH A TWIST
Resonating the romance of history, these European jewellery designers capture the life of Marie Antoinette – from a life of opulence to her last days in prison.
Alessio Boschi Rose de France necklace
Over 101 carats of unheated fuscia, blue, pink, orange and purple spinels, paraiba tourmalines, aquamarines, various shades of pink sapphires, mali and demantoid garnets, indicolites or blue tourmalines, with yellow and white diamonds form the fancifucl Alessio Boschi Rose de France necklace. The transformable piece detaches into a shorter version, which results in a matching pair of earrings, pendants and brooches. “I was inspired by the fragrances and petals of the special roses created for Marie Antoinette. The colour combination is reminiscent of her favourtire pastel colours – from the precious embroidered silk that she chose for her dresses to the macaron created under her reign,” says Italian jeweller Alessio Boschi.
Lydia Courteille tiara
However, there is always another side to the coin. In fancy coloured sapphires and aquamarines, “the tiara comes alive with a palette inspired by the life of Marie Antoinette: From a soft pastel aquamarine blue to royal gold, then gradually to a dark and almost Gothic side, where spiders mingle with the royal treasures the Queen could have saved until her last moments in her prison,” says Parisian jeweller Lydia Courteille. “We see the majesty of the Monarchy from the more sinister, darker side.”